Introduction/Our Mission
Four basic commands of obedience
Dog Training Situations/Scenarios
Advanced Training
Dog Training Equipment/Dog collars and leashes
Dog Training Resources
New Puppy Training - The first two days
Other Dog Care Areas
Dental hygiene for your dog

The basic commands of obedience:
Sit, stay, come and use of the word "no" are the four commands that are most critical as the foundation to good dog training and control to prevent the out of control dog.

After picking up a new puppy or dog, you have to avoid some important mistakes that could send the wrong signals to your new dog.

No doubt, you've already begun bonding with your new dog, and now you want to begin a training strategy, setting objectives for each individual training session.

You want to go into a training session knowing what you want to accomplish. It is important to remember that your new dog (and most every dog out there) is very keen to pick up on your visual and verbal cues. If you are unsure about what you want to accomplish, your dog will pick up on your uncertainty and take advantage of that perceived weakness. Showing confidence and having a commanding voice (with conviction in your voice) is a sure way to show who is in charge and that your dog should be taking your instruction very seriously.

Regaring required time to spend in each session, many people think that longer sessions translate into better retention... that is quite simply not true!

Most training sessions should be only 2-5 minutes, and no longer than 15 minutes. You want to set a very specific goal for each training session and, when you do achieve that particular goal, you want to end the session. Importantly, you want to always end each session on a positive note; you want to reward the dog by playing with him with a ball or a toy that he likes.

Whining, doesn't sit or stay, doesn't walk well on a leash, jumps onto people and furiture, chews on wood and furniture. Totally untrained dog, 3 years old. Name: Champ

Solution: Begin by training two out of four basic skills - to sit, and to stay.

Before the session, realize that you cannot train the dog to sit in just one session; it may take several sessions over 4-5 days. So, we're going to have goals set to train just pieces of the behavior for each session.

Start every training session with your dog in a collar with his leash attached.

Bring Champ up, and take your right hand and place it over his back side, to push it down as you say "sit", and then say "stay." After saying the word, "stay" you place your open and flat hand in front of the dog's face as you are saying the word "stay." Hold the leash with your left hand as you keep your right hand free to use guiding movements (e.g., such as pushing the hind quarters down for sitting, or to place in front of the dog's face as you say "stay").

If the animal makes a mistake, or continually gets up, we don't yank on the dog or yell at it, we just remain calm and repeat the commands. You can do this while you are stroking the sides of his face, and reinforcing correct behavior by saying "very good - good dog," or "perfect," or "good boy..."

If the dog tries to lie down onto his stomach, hold the leash tight enough that he cannot reach the floor and bring his head back up to sitting position.

At this point, early in your first session, stay close to the dog, and do not move back and away from your dog, as this may tempt him to come to you, and lose focus on the main objective to stay sitting.

After each good behavior (i.e., where your dog is doing what you say - staying seated and staying put), reward him for that good bahavior by saying "good boy" and petting his face and neck. Many owners make the mistake of calling the dog over to them before rewarding them, which will confuse the purpose for that reward. Stick to the goal! One thing at a time and the dog will get a clear message of what he is doing right and what the reward is for.
As you move farther away (in a subsequent session) you will always walk over to him, and then reward him for staying, thereby eliminating any confusion about what is the correct behaviour and the purpose for the reward (i.e., stating "good boy" and petting him).

You will notice that, after several times doing this, your dog becomes conditioned to this routine, and will begin to pay closer attention to your movement and words as he stares up at you for his next command!

The training process is a long process that requires strategy and patience on behalf of the dog owner... Remember that, of all domestic animals out there, your dog's main motivation is to be your pal and to really make you happy. Dog training embraces that motivation and uses it to condition the dog to associate good behavior with making you, his owner, happy over time. This again involves patience over time, and repeated, consistent actions and visual and verbal cues on your part to reinforce (and reward) this good behavior.

Once you can get your dog to sit when you are in close proximity, you then want to let go of the leash and move about 10 feet away and then get the dog to sit. Once this is accomplished, repeat this command 4-5 times, always remembering to return back to the dog, where the dog has sat for you, before rewarding him. This will reinforce that he is being rewarded for that specific action, and that alone (e.g., versus him then coming to you, and you rewarding him, which may confuse the reason for the reward - sitting or coming to you?).

Next session outline...



Prerquisite: Your dog understands well and follows the sit and stay commands, and will stay put when you move away from the dog while holding the leash (i.e., only about 3 feet away) to begin the training of the come behavior.

Training your dog to come to you is usually an easy behavior because most dogs naturally want to come to their owners.

Always start with a starting position that the dog will know is that point, where he sits and stays, and then move only about 3 feet away from him, reinforcing the stay command to make sure he stays put.

Once you move to the destination point, you can then get his attention by calling his name, "Champ? Champ?" "Come". and also give a slight tug to the leash. And the dog should break out of his sitting position and then come to you. Once he comes to your position, then you should kneel down and reward the dog for doing well and coming to you... "Good dog, champ." "Good boy..." And pet the dog vigorously as he likes it and will recognize that he is being rewarded for doing something right.

After he does this correctly 2-3 times, we then start to move farther away, adding 1-2 feet of distance each time, continuing to hold the leash and giving a slight tug, as you are using the "come" command.

Now, the goal is to have the dog come to you, without having to tug on the leash; just by using the verbal "come" command.

If you do have difficulty getting your dog to come to you, you may need to use something that is a little bit more obvious reinforcement, using a food reward or a treat, or possibly even a ball or toy.

You may also be required to use the reward system to simply scratch or pet the dog to keep him to stay, prior to using the "come" command and then
separately rewarding him for that correct behavior.

One of the biggest reasons for a breakdown in behavior during any attempt to train your dog, is that many owners do not properly train the meaning of the word "no" to their dog. Therefore, they do not clearly understand and respect the word "no" so that it translates into "that is not the right behavior!" when "no!" is uttered. "No" does not have to be screamed or used sharply. It can be said very softly and should still have the same impact Tand be recognized as incorrect or bad behavior by your dog.

The way to teach your dog, or reintroduce your dog, the word "no" is to take something that the dog wants go to, so that you can introduce the "no" command, to keep him from going to that desired item.

In this example, we have placed some potato chips spread out, onto a low patio table.

Here, at first, you allow the dog to go to the food. While the dog is eating, I'm going to say "no" and I'm also going to correct the dog at the same time, by tugging at the leash and bring him right back to you.

So, you allow the dog to reach the food, and begin eating. "No" is called out, the leash is tugged and you bring the dog back to you, and then reward the dog while kneeling.

After doing this several times, you then do not allow the dog to completely reach the food, and still call out "no", tug at the leash to bring him back to you, and then reward the dog for this good behavior. Repeat 4-5 times. Note: Depending on both the size of your dog (and its stubborness), you may have to tug a little harder in the beginning to redirect the dog's intentions. The goal is, over time, to have to tug very lightly, as not a redirection, but a simple signal to the dog.

After you have completed this over several times (and possibly a few sessions), you will actually drop the leash as the dog walks toward the food, and not have to use it to tug at all. When you say "no" at this point, the dog should look back to you, and then should come back to you, and then you can give him a reward for this good behavior.

This is a longer process that requires your patience. Your strategy is to gradually make these changes in slow intervals. Repeat the steps many times to the point where the dog does not stray from the desired behavior. Once good behavior is achieved consistently, you can move on to the next step (e.g., where you drop the leash) and then reinforce that level of good behavior.

Once you have effectively trained the meaning of the word "no" into your dog, he will immediately understand and respect its meaning; and it will become the most important foundation to the success of subsequent, more complex training commands.

With the effective use of all four basic obedience commands (i.e., sit, stay, come and no), there is no limit to what your dog can achieve and be trained to do).

Examples of the highest level of advanced training are exhibited during agility training expos. Agility training [see picture] tests your dog's agility level and specifically requires dogs to navigate through obstacle courses that include jumps, tunnels, and other obstacles that test both your dog's agility as well as discipline to complete each course. Dog's are judged based on performances that are smooth and flowing throughout the obstacle course.

Agility Training For Your Dog
With agility competitions, each dog is ranked in order of their size. The larger the dog, the longer the course they have to navigate and the faster they have to do it. The dog is required to run through a series of jumps, tunnels, contact walks and weave polls. Each obstacle is designed to exhibit their individual strengths and weaknesses.

The agility course and its obstacles - broken down.

The open tunnel. A closed tunnel of wire and material that makes a circular tunnel that is a favorite among agility dog performers. It is easy to run through and complete in a quick, flowing motion.

The closed tunnel. A closed tunnel starts with a rigid, cylindrical entrance, but is then attached to a collapsed chute of material that, once the dog runs through it, it allows the dog to get through it and to the other end, which is also open to allow for an effective exit. The challenge to the competing dog is that, by being made up of collapsed material, the dog does not see that the exit is available after entering the closed tunnel opening. For some dogs, this is intimidating to have to go into an opening that is dark, and then have to push their way through to get to their owner at the other end.

Jumps require dogs to have both physical agility and coordination, but they also require that the dog makes quick decisions. For example, with a hanging tire, a dog must decide that the proper opening is through the tire and not around it.

Contact Obstacles.
Contact obstacles test a dog's control, discipline and decision. Each contact obstacle is painted to be color-coded with a yellow area on each end. The dog is required to touch, or contact, each yellow zone. This requirement is both for the dog to exhibit control and discipline, as well as to ensure the dog's safety (e.g., especially during fast-paced, timed competition), as they would otherwise try to jump over obstacles, rather than walk through them completely in a controlled manner.

Dog Walk.
Another contact obstacle is the dog walk. It is usually a narrow collection of boards that the dog must walk up, and then walk over a horizontal section, and then walk down (i.e., also touching the yellow zones at each end). Small dogs find this obstacles easier for obvious reasons. Their legs are closer together to accommodate the more narrow planks, and their center of gravity is lower to help them navigate the dog walk more quickly. Larger dogs must consciously keep their legs closer together and usually will take longer to complete the dog walk obstacle.

See Saw.
The see saw is also a contact obstacle with yellow zones at each end. It's the one obstacle in the dog agility course that actually moves under the dogs feet, which is definitely a new sensation to most dogs, and can be unnerving to the dog. Additionally, they must come up the plank to its pivot point, and wait. Once it pivots downward to the other side and hits the ground, the dog must then move down the plank to complete the see saw contact obstacle.

Weave Polls.
Ask any agility trainer, and they will tell you that weave polls are the ultimate challenge in agility competition. For the same reason, the weave polls are known to be the biggest crowd pleaser on the agility course. Weave polls teach dogs to move with speed and precision. The closest thing to it that you may know is the slalom event in and out of poles in skiing. For training and practice, they may consist of 3-6 poles, and may use training guide wires that direct the dog in and out of each pole on the correct side.

However, during a competition, this obstacle is made up of 12 weave poles that the dog must successfully navigate by alternating entry through, beginning on the right of the first pole,then the left of the second pole, and so on, in and out of all the poles until completed. The weave poles are by far the most difficult obstacle for the dog to learn and master. It may take the dog up to a year to understand and efficiently navigate the weave polls so that he can compete in and complete the obstacle course.

As with all dog training, perfection cannot be mastered overnight. Patience is the key to teaching your dog the agility training course obstacles. But patience is rewarded! Once your dog has mastered the obstacles in succession for the first time, you will be sharing the pride of that success with your dog and will remember it as if it were your own son or daughter accomplishing something on which you worked so hard together, patiently improved upon, and finally saw success in that progression. One other benefit of agility training is that it requires dog owners and their dogs to spend great time together, reinforcing the bond you share together.

Dental hygiene for your dog
Dental care is very important for your dog. Just as with humans, dental disease is one of the most common diseases seen for dogs. Bad breath is also a by-product of poor dental care for your dog.

One of the simplest things that can be done to eliminate bad breath for your dog is to minimize plaque and tartar buildup. The most abrasive the dog's diet, such as feeding him strictly dry dog food, will minimize the buildup of plaque and tartar which is the leading cause of bad breath in pets.

Chew toys are also specifically made to help with some dental problems. These do work and do slow down buildup, but nothing works as well as the pet owner's brushing their dog's teeth.

The best technique is getting the bristles of a dog toothbrush under the gumline and between the teeth. There are dog toothbrushes and toothpaste. For different sized dogs' mouths, there are different sized brushes.

Should human toothpaste be used? No. The dogs aren't as receptive to the foaming action caused by the brushing, or the mint flavor of most human toothpastes. Plus, the dog toothpastes are formulated to be swallowed by your pet, where most human toothpastes are meant to be spit out, and are not really meant to be swallowed.

Teaching your dog to sit up.
What you want to do is start out with small treats for the dog. First, starting with your dog in the sitting position, what you want to do is hold the treat over the dog's head, and the dog reaches up for it. As the dog reaches up for it, you say "sit up," and you hold the dog up with your free hand, just for a second or two, saying "stay," (and reward the dog for sitting up - "good boy") and then say "come down," and you bring the dog down.

Leash Training
If your dog is contantly pulling, trying to get away from you, and chasing after things, you can take control by teaching your dog to "heel."

There are many different leashes and collars [see our dog equipment section], but you must find the one that fits and works best for your dog. Once you have the right collar and leash combination, you can then begin working on teaching your dog to "heel" while walking your dog.

To begin with, extension leashes generally should not be used when training a dog. You need to have control of your dog and keep him in close proximity during training, so a "lever leash" is recommended for effective training. Also, it is very important that the dog be taught consistently, so either one person should train the dog, or all persons who walk the dog should follow the same commands and methods.

Start with your dog placed on your left side, and not in front of you. With your fingers under the dogs collar, with a little slack in the collar, you want the dog to stay put. So, you indicate "stay" and then reward him for staying. Not too hard, but important as a starting point.

Once you have your dog in position, you want to teach the dog that moving forward only a small step (6-12 inches and then stop) and stating "heel" is a condition that the dog should become accustomed to, and you will likely have to hold the leash tightly to guide him in the beginning.

Again, very casually and softly, you say the word, "heel" and then take the next step. Reward the dog by petting it, and then repeat through the next step, about 6-12 inches at a time. This also teaches the dog cues on slowing down and stopping by your side.

If the dog is very distracted by cars going by, or other people or pets, wait for the dog to look at you before giving the command to "heel" and then taking the step.

Sessions should be 2-5 minutes and no longer than 10 minutes per session; 2-3 sessions per day. When you are finished with each session, spend some time playing with your dog as a message of reward for that session.

Remember that you are starting with baby steps, moving forward only 6 or 8 to 12 inches at a time. Once this is accomplished, move on to 1-2 feet and then 3-4 feet. Over time, you will find that you can walk without stopping, while keeping your dog in check with the reminder command (i.e., tightly holding the leash) to him of "heel." Remember, you never yank back on the dog's leash. Always apply slow, constant pressure on the leash, but don't yank back on it.

Let's review the simple steps to teaching your dog to heel:
- keep your dog by your side (not letting the dog get in front of you)
- start out with very small steps forward (6 or 8 to 12 inches at a time)
- as you are taking the step, gently pull the dog's leash forward and call out "heel"
- over time, gradually increase the distance and amount of steps you take
- repition is key; repeat this procedure until your dog is accustomed to walking by your side
- use a normal, casual voice when using the "heel" command; you do not need to yell at the dog
- never yank back on your dog's leash; simply use a constant, gentle pull on his leash

Dogs that grab onto their leashes.
A problem that many dog owners have with their dogs while on leashes is that their dog will constantly reach back and grab the leash with their mouth. This is usually seen more in puppies as they like to play and like the tactile feel of items in their mouth. This is a very bad habit that, unless stopped, will become a lifelong condition that will interfere with the proper use of walking your dog on a leash.

To address this problem, and correct it, you want to teach your dog the word "out." You do this by having your dog sit and stay, kneeling down, and taking the leash out of your dog's mouth by literally prying it out, with one hand pulling up on the dog's mouth, while the other pulls down. As you take the leash out of his mouth, you then say the word "out." Don't make the mistake of trying to pull the leash out of the dog's mouth, because it then can get misunderstood by your dog as a game of tug-of-war, where the dog wins if it pulls away from you. Always pry the dog's mouth open, and then take the leash out, while saying the word "out." Then reward the dog.

Selecting the right collar and leash for your dog.
When you are considering the appropriate style and design of your dog's collar and leash combination, you must first consider your dog's size and temperment.

When correcting a larger dog, such as a Rotweiler or Great Dane, you need a collar that has some substance and lasting strength and durability, such as a wider leather collar. Also, consider the material of the collar. Although nylon collars can be made in various colors and are lightweight, they can be more restrictive on the dog than more substantial, wider and more rigid materials like leather. When pulled, nylon collars can actually cut into the folds and skin of the dog. If your dog may require stronger pulls to counter his size and weight, you should probably stick with more rigid materials such as

Leashes are similar to collars in that their substance should be matched to the size and weight of the dog, and the pull that you think will be required to correct your dog during training.

Retractable leashes should only be used after a dog is trained; it is not a good choice for use during dog training.

Many dog owners get concerned during leash training that their dogs are pulling so hard against the leash and collar that they start to cough and choke as they pull. They worry that the dog may cause damage to its neck or throat when this occurs. It is rare that a dog will cause injury to itself just by applying its own weight against its collar. Also, it is important to realize that, during leash training, you should always apply steady, slow pressure back on the leash, and never yank the dog by the leash.

Flea collars are now becoming considered "old school" for effectively preventing flea problems for our pets. If used, they should never be attached to leashes as they are not made for this purpose. Today's veterinarians are now using new technology, through advanced medicines, which attack the problem systemically rather than topically.

Choke collars or choke chains are tools for training only and should be taken off after each training session. If left unattended with a choke chain attached, your dog can actually get caught on an object and cause choking or even strangulation death. Always remove the choke collar after each training session.

Use of a harness.
A harness fits snugly over the dog's nose and mouth. Using a harness is a great training method because, when pulled, it applies pressure over the dog's nose and mouth, and not pulling against his collar and neck area. In the beginning, you have to give your dog a chance to get used to wearing it, as he is not used to anything over his nose and mouth. Over the course of a week's time, simply use the harness while walking your dog. Once comfortable with the harness, you can then use it for further training.

Dogs that chase
Two of the most common situations where dogs chase after things are running out the door, and where the dog is on the leash but runs to chase after something, pulling you along.

The challenge is to expose your dog to several types of stimuli that cause them to chase, and to desensitize them to those stimuli; getting him used to those situations.

Usually, distance to the stimulation determines the sererity of your dog's desire to chase after that thing. Using an example of someone walking by your house (i.e., a stranger to your dog), get your dog to sit and stay way back from the sidewalk in front of your house, so that the stranger can walk by without your dog pulling to give chase. Once this is done, reward your dog with petting and reinforcement.

The next step is to move your dog about 7-10 feet closer to the sidewalk and have him sit and stay at that point. Again, have the stranger walk in front of your house on the sidewalk. If this works again, without barking or chase, reward your dog again, and move closer, another 7-10 feet.

At this point, the stranger crosses in front, and the dog then gives chase, pulling on the leash. You can then get the dog to sit and stay and then reward him.

Running out the door...
This is known as boundary training - training your dog where he can and cannot go. For his safety and for your convenience.

To do this training properly, you need a long leash, about 20-30 feet, that you can get at your local pet store, or through this link that we have found is a good vendor.

Using the door's threshold as a natural starting point, kneel down there, and then allow the dog to go out as far as he wants to, but then at the stop point, call out the dog's name for it to return. Gradually repeat this process, while reducing the amount of leash that you allow the dog to take out. This may take several sessions over several days and possibly week's but you should be able to get to the point that calling out the dog's name causes him to stop and look back at you, before crossing over the threshold and, therefore, successfully establishing your home's front door threshold as a boundary they should not cross. They are reminded by this simply by casually calling out their name (i.e., not yelling their name, but in a calm talking volume voice).

Why do dogs chase?
Chasing is the natural instinct that all dogs have as a predatory response from past times when wild dogs would chase down prey as a food source. So sudden movement away, or balls thrown, or other animals can cause a natural response for your dog to give chase.

Certain breeds of dogs - the hunting dog breeds - may be more prone to chase than other breeds.

Puppy training - the first two days
Getting a new puppy is very similar to bringing home a new baby. Your new puppy becomes a new presense in your home that cannot be ignored. A new puppy is a very big responsibility and requires much of your attention during its first few months.

The first 48 hours after bring your new puppy home can be crucial to determining your future training success by planting the roots for him to grow from.

The type of breed that you choose can have a very significant impact on the personality of your new puppy and, later, your full-grown dog and companion. Once you have decided on the breed you are seeking, you can find a litter that is for sale.

Once you have found the litter, you may want to consider hiring what is called a "puppy tester," who will objectively evaluate a puppy by examining all the puppies in the litter and determine the best puppy for you to choose for your particular needs.

A puppy tester is a consultant who will have had no previous encounters with the puppies in the litter you are considering. He or she will evaluate puppies based on individual and shared characteristics, as well as each puppy's ability to interact with the other puppies in the litter and their interaction with humans around them.

Several considerations include the puppy's abilities to be:
- outgoing
- confident
- friendly
- good interest in people
- good social skills for his age
- likes toys, likes to play
- good interest in his environment
- not overwhelmed or excessively shy

Just like bring home a baby and making sure your home is child-proofed, you also need to ensure that you have "puppy-proofed" your home from hazards. Similar areas are areas for concern when thinking about your new puppy. Pools must be enclosed and protected from entry.

Also, you need to look around your house and think about what puppies would want to chew on. One of the most common items used today with electronics are power cords and surge protectors. These should be brought up off the floor and secured to a table or desk.

Furniture should be watched carefully as it cannot easily be covered. You may also want to take any shoes up off the floor and store them in closets or up on shelves.

Just as with children, you want to take any poisons, solvents or cleaning fluids up off the floor and out of lower cabinets so that the puppy cannot mistakenly get into these items and cause harm to itself.

When bringing the puppy home, it is important that you have a pet container that is padded at the bottom for both comfort and safety, in case of a sudden stop or an accident. Additionally, given a puppy does not have the discipline or training to stay out of your way while driving, this container will also keep them from running over to you or down by your feet while driving.

Once you have arrived home, the first thing that you do is to acclimate the new puppy to both the front and back yards, as well as taking him through all the rooms of the house to show the puppy around and try to make him feel more comfortable with his surroundings.

You will want to let him cruise around and simply watch him to supervise his behavior.

The crate container that you used to bring your new puppy home will also be used inside the house as part of the puppy's training and paper training to housebreak the puppy. It is important that you do not get a container that is more than twice as tall as the dog, or much wider than the dog is long. This is because dogs will not tend to relieve themselves where they sleep, and it will facilitate the process of paper training and, later, housebreaking your new puppy.

To get the puppy used to staying in the crate, you want to first place him gently into the crate, close the door and pause. After just about 10 seconds, you want to open the door and take the puppy out again. That way, the puppy won't feel that the crate is a prison and he won't feel abandoned by you. Repeat this process, for about 30 seconds, and then a minute, and so on. You want to do this until the dog is comfortable without whining or barking for 15 minutes at a time.

When it comes to a dog relieving himself (urination or defecation), it is important to note the difference between coming home to find that this has happened, and actually catching your puppy in the act of relieving himself.

If you find that the accident has already happened, there is nothing you can do to teach the dog not to do that again. It's history and there's nothing to do about it. However, if you catch your puppy in the act of relieving himself, then there is something you can do to intercede to interrupt that bad behavior.

The first thing you can do is to say "No!" in a very loud voice. When you really startle the puppy, you are telling him that this is a negative thing and it has a lot of significance. Then take the puppy by the collar and walk him outside to allow him to continue relieving himself outside.

In addition to housebreaking and other training for your new puppy, it is important to go over an introduction and checklist with your family's veterinarian and to give your new puppy a full physical examination. While your breeder or shelter may have already ensured proper immunizations for your puppy, you will still want to have your vet check out the puppy and confirm that all of his recommended shots have been given. It is important that you make sure that the vet is ready to see you when you arrive. A puppy without proper vaccinations should not be in the waiting area with other dogs that may be

A good veterinarian will ask about the puppy's eating habits and make sure that he is eating at least two to three times a day. He'll then proceed with a full physical exam to check for any congentital problems. This will include listening to the heart, checking its eyes and ears, and a dental examination, to look for any underbite or overbite that could lead to future problems. He will also examine your puppy's hips to determine if he sees any hip displaysia, which may be a common problem among certain breeds. His weight will be checked to make sure that he is in the right percentile for his age, and his stool will be checked to make sure there are no parasites or worms are present. This stool check will also be performed one month later.

A mistake that most children (and adults alike) make is to hold a new puppy too much.

When you do hold a new puppy, you want to take your right hand underneath his chest and your left hand around his hind quarters, to be able to hold him against your body, facing out, so that both of you can be comfortable.

Dealing with puppies that are teething, or who like to chew just about anything...
The simplest way to prevent puppies from chewing on items is to remove those items from the puppy's reach, by putting them away from them. The biggest risk is to allow your puppy to chew on any items long enough that it becomes a conditioned behavior. Once this happens, it becomes a habit for your puppy that is very hard to break.

As a great replacement, you can keep dog toys and rawhide chew toys in a basket or plastic container in one corner of the room, and always in the same place.

To intercede and interrupt a chewing behavior, you want to come up behind the dog, and grip the collar and say "No" as you are pulling him back from the item he is chewing (if needed, use your free hand to take the item away from the dog). When pulling the dog away, you want to have a replacement chew toy ready to show the dog what is acceptable to chew on. Once the dog takes that to chew on, you want to reward him by petting him and saying "good dog.


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